Went for a morning walky and came upon the Jeep just shaking off the morning frost out where I’ve been parking it lately…
Don’t dare drive it down the ridge to the Lair until that axle strut is fixed. I hope to get it to the shop outside town tomorrow morning, after which I’ll be completely Jeepless for a week. I need to check if the outside spigot on Landlady’s house works at all: If not I’ll have to make arrangements with Neighbor L for chicken water, since I’m not walking a 5-gallon jug a mile through rough country.
Good luck with this Joel. I know how much the jeep means to you and I hope it turns out OK.
Assume you’ll have the welding on both ends of both struts examined as well.
Yeah . . .I knew you would.
😉
Not only that. There are worn-out steering linkage components that frankly should have broken years ago. I didn’t worry about them too much because they were things I could replace myself if needed, but I didn’t want to do it preemptively because I couldn’t perform the necessary wheel alignment and didn’t want to risk wrecking my nice front tires unnecessarily. While the Jeep is in the shop I hope to have those things corrected. Then I’ll get them to look at the fuel system issues if remaining money permits.
Ah, yes, tie-rod ends and the like.
Would a hand truck be useful for hauling things through rough country:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Buffalo-600-lb-Capacity-Red-Steel-Standard-Hand-Truck/4696243
Free shipping. Should get to your mail drop next weekend.
That’s a nicer handtruck than the one I already have, but I already have one.
But no, especially since last August’s floods that washed out all the easy path access to the wash it is not practical to haul water all the way to Landlady’s place with a handtruck. It would actually be easier to do it by road, which is more than twice as long but at least graded and without big rocks.
How about a mile or two of 1 1/2″ dia hose? Or installing a hydrant and hydrant hose? You can get kits with both for home use.
You can do the wheel alignment on that jeep, you do need one tool though, a tape measure. You just set the tierod length so the distance from the front of the wheels is about 1/8″ to 1/4″ closer than the rear of the wheels. All you need to adjust when changing steering linkage is the toe, the camber is fixed by the axle housing and the caster is set with the link arms and should be checked when the bracket gets welded back on.