Thought I’d get more done…

Less than half finished with the porch floor…


But I’m out of steam and my back hurts. Shouldn’t feel too bad about it, I guess. I’ve been working since around 6:30.

Hope I can hitch a ride to town tomorrow morning, if I can’t I’m going to have to canvas the neighbors to find somebody I can bum some screws from. Definitely don’t have enough to finish the floor.

About Joel

You shouldn't ask these questions of a paranoid recluse, you know.
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4 Responses to Thought I’d get more done…

  1. Kentucky says:

    Totally unrelated . . . why is the door off of the Jeep?

  2. Joel says:

    Because I’ve been in and out a lot and got tired of messing with the door.

  3. Kentucky says:

    Ah, so! One of the benefits of a Jeep! 🙂

  4. Norman says:

    Too late now with half the decking in, but it would have been beneficial to install some horizontal diagonal bracing between the ledger board on the lair and the rim joist on the front of the porch.

    It looks like the perpendiculars (between the ledger and rim joist/posts are on 4 ft centers which is 3X what’s recommended. But that does make it easier to install diagonals,which should be cut to not just face against the perpendiculars but also face against the post or rim joist (posts would be better because facing against the rim joist requries high strength in the rim joist-to-post attachment).

    An “X” formed by diagonals could be additionally secured in the center of the X with a threaded fastener – 3/8″ – 1/2′ bolt with proper washers and nut – to make the diagonals into 4 triangles; a triangle is always the goal in bracing because the corner angles cannot change without a change in length of at least one of the sides, and vice-versa. I’ve used 6″ lengths of 3/16″ thick 4-6″ angle iron with 5/16″ Grade 5 bolts to retrofit diagonal bracing where joint security was unobtainable any other way and it’s worked well. (Bolt grade is identified by lines on the hex head – add 2 to the line count to get the grade; Grade 2 is common (very) mild steel, “hardware or stove bolts;” Grade 8 is hardened; Grade 12 is usually only found on engine connecting rods and around aircraft.)

    Through nailing is stronger than toe nailing, but through nailing is not possible on a 4X4 post. Way back when, carpenters were taught to gently bend the 12d and 16d nails when toe nailing to make the curved nail intersect the “base” board closer to 90 degrees, increasing shear strength. That went the way of the dinosaur with air nailers that substitute lots of nails for carpentry skills; we don’t have “carpenters” any more, just “nailers.” The strength of the joint is dependent upon the fit of the pieces, not how many nails you can put in, and power saws substitute speed for precision – when it took a few minutes to cut a board with a hand saw and nailing was done by hand there was incentive to get the cut and fit right the first time. There was also the time necessary to learn it; when you’re operating a hand saw you can think about the task, when you’re making 8-10 cuts/minute on 2 boards at a time with an 8″ worm drive saw there isn’t. Ain’t technology wunnerful?

    Screws – the right ones for the job – are usually better than nails, so substituting 3″ – 4″ #10 or #12 steel deck screws driven at a 30-35 degree angle would be better than even through nailing. Those screws, like common nails, aren’t hardened, allowing them to bend – a little – under stress rather than snap (which is why drywall screws should never be used for anything other than attaching drywall to studs).

To the stake with the heretic!