Windstorms cause property damage, pt. 2

Hmph.

Neighbor L saw this yesterday and told me about it. I went over this morning for fear it was doing damage to the new fence, which it isn’t so this can wait. But clearly we need better anchoring.

About Joel

You shouldn't ask these questions of a paranoid recluse, you know.
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9 Responses to Windstorms cause property damage, pt. 2

  1. Kentucky says:

    I’m somewhat surprised the sign is still attached to the cross beam.

  2. Ben says:

    Would screw anchors work in that soil?

  3. Joel says:

    Possibly, don’t know. Have to figure out how to fasten the poles to the anchors.

  4. Hiss says:

    A deadman anchor always works, but you have to know how to anchor it. If you just dig a hole and fill it up, it won’t hold. Pack the soil as you backfill – every layer, tamped with enthusiasm. Maybe even dampen it (not muddy, just damp) to make a huge mud boulder. Lot of work, but effective.

  5. Ben says:

    Two ways to potentially use screw anchors, either to anchor guy wires (which are a great way to hold things down). Or if you are pouring New foundations they can be screwed in so that they protrude into the concrete to keep your foundation from being pulled out of the ground.

  6. Ben says:

    BTW: Hiss gives good advice in the event that the anchors can’t be screwed into the ground, and must instead be dug into place.

  7. bjamesb says:

    Wait a minute! Where is your xwife, shitty job, credit cards, phony friends, car you hate, poison food, and self-delusion you’re “happy”? How come you get to be free; taking pot shots at the rest of us too stupid to move away from the Dunkin Donuts? Just found this. Love you already. I’m gonna escape (just like you) ANY MINUTE NOW! Now, where’s my latte?

  8. Joel says:

    bjamesb; I never take pot shots at people. 🙂

  9. PNO’s recipe for an expanding rebar ‘staple’:

    4-6′ section of 1/2″ rebar for a 2-3′ ‘staple’.
    2 pcs. iron/steel pipe 1″ id or so – 3-4′ long.
    1-2′ baling wire and pliers.

    Use the pipe sections to bend the rebar in the middle so the rebar is bent back on itself like a hairpin. When you let off the pressure on the rebar it’ll spread back open 25-30 degrees. Adjust the pipes so that a foot or so of the bent end is showing and bend the rebar back on itself again. Put a few wraps of baling wire around the legs of the rebar and twist it secure. At this point you can let off pressure on the rebar and it should stay in a hairpin shape – the legs parallel with each other and secured by the wire. If you’re making a 3′ staple you might want another wrap of wire a foot below the first one.

    With a sledgehammer drive the open legs of the staple in the ground several inches – far enough so that when you clip the wire/s the legs don’t immediately start to spread – but not so far that the legs can’t spread as you continue to drive the staple in. Different soil conditions will call for different handling on this – but if done right the rebar will spread open as the rest of the ‘staple’ is driven in. I haven’t tried this in very rocky soil but I’d imagine that would complicate things – chances of hitting a rock are doubled. I can’t recall doing this in soil that would stay wet – but rust would eventually destroy the rebar in that event.

    I’ve used this often for guy wires and tie downs with no concrete and they’ve held up to some pretty stout winds. YMMV.

    I could see doing this in a shallow posthole and then driving vertical rebar pieces through the ‘U’ of the staples and then pouring the concrete around them.

    That’s a post I wouldn’t want to have to dig/pull back out!

To the stake with the heretic!