First cut of the season

It’s early yet, and I know the weather is just itching for a chance to break my heart. But what the hell? It’s too warm and still not to pretend that building season is here.

Anyway, Big Brother is coming for a visit in a couple of weeks to do the addition trim, and I need to be geared up for that. So…

Before he gets here, I can do exterior window and door trim while the lumber holds out.

Take that cool little Honda generator feralfae gave me last year out of the powershed. Gas it up, switch it on, set the choke.

First pull, y’all! Started right up. Emptying the gasoline out of the tank is an enormous PTA, but I like the way there’s a valve that lets you empty the carb bowl after it finishes running dry. I put it in storage with a fair – and as it turns out, justified – degree of confidence that bad gas and condensation wouldn’t wreck the carb.

Brought the woodcutting table to the Lair from the woodlot, brought the chopsaw out of storage at Landlady’s barn. First cut of the season!

Which of course didn’t have anything to do with cabin trim. It has always bugged me, how insecure that new rear door is. Sure, I could buy a jig and cut the door for a deadlock, but what the hell? This is cheaper, easier and more secure. If anybody ever comes to kick in my door, I want to know at which door I should be aiming the rifle. I delayed until I could get some proper bolts. Good luck kicking that in. 🙂 I’ll paint it while I’m painting trim in a few weeks.

About Joel

You shouldn't ask these questions of a paranoid recluse, you know.
This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.

13 Responses to First cut of the season

  1. suz says:

    We have one of those Honda generators. Love it!! Ours starts up first pull just about every time. 2 pulls tops. We pay the extra $$ and only put ethanol free gas in ours so we don’t have the carb issues. It worked!

  2. terrapod says:

    Joel, I realize funds are always being stretched, but you really should get a steel faced door to for any exit/entry door to the outside. That appears to be a lauan (ie flimsy) interior sandwich construction door, probably has zig zag cardboard glued inside for rigidity, but is near zero on the protection scale.

    Nowadays even those “steel doors” come in crappy to good quality range. I am going to replace the one on my barn this summer, the original one was two thin sheets of steel over a wood frame and the wood rotted at the bottom, becoming a home to all kinds of little crawlies.

  3. Andrew says:

    Change out the pine 2×4 for a stronger piece of oak, easily obtainable from pallets. Use a table saw to take the dimensional lumber down to finished lumber size, then hit it with some linseed or tung oil and set it to dry in the sun. Do it several times until the oil slows or stops being soaked in.

    That will give you a bar strong enough even the jack-booted thugs won’t be able to break.

  4. Joel says:

    Yeah, I’m going to keep my eyes open for a better piece of hardwood.

    Terrapod I don’t know the precise construction of that door, but I’ve seen a lot of cheesy hollow ones and this isn’t that. Far too heavy for one thing, and it certainly sounds solid.

  5. Anonymous says:

    I hate to break this to you, but the weak point is that bracket at the right end of the bar. Without the top being secured, a good kick to the door near the door handle will bend it over to the point that the bar will drop. Of course, with wood frame construction, the fasteners holding those two brackets might fail first. With it slightly above the door hardware, it probably wouldn’t fail with the first breaching round, although with the hinge pins on the outside of the door, pulling those is the easiest way for someone to gain unauthorized entry.

  6. Ben says:

    The hinge pin vulnerability is easily solved with hinge security pins. Even with the hinge pins removed, the door remains secure.

  7. Joel says:

    I hate to break this to you, but the weak point is that bracket at the right end of the bar. Without the top being secured, a good kick to the door near the door handle will bend it over to the point that the bar will drop.

    Unless your name is Clark Kent, I’d almost be willing to build a mock-up just to watch you try to do that.

    But in any case it’s still more secure than a deadbolt. Nothing is absolutely secure – especially since the door is right next to a big window.

  8. Kentucky says:

    Actually, the hinge pin vulnerability is solved by having them on the INSIDE of the door, as we see here.

    And the prime function of locks is to make sure uninvited guests make a LOTTA noise to announce their arrival.


  9. Mike says:

    Hey Joel about that door, a person doesn’t have to kick it in. If you aren’t home, all the bad guy would have to to is take a small pry bar or knife and remove a bit of the trim. Next use a Slim Jim slid between door and frame to lift the two by four up and off. Last use the Slim Jim again to manipulate the latch bolt.

    Personally I think the risk of someone trying to bust in to your place is around the same as winning a lottery. Just look at the area you are in, the tightly knit group in the gulch plus the fact you are armed all the time.

  10. Joel says:

    Not to mention the gigantic terrified dog that’s probably inside waiting to tear out a burglar’s throat? Yeah, actually most of the time I don’t bother locking the door. 🙂

  11. Kentucky says:

    Wow, I just thought of another dozen ways to break into Joel’s home . . . but I think I’ll just let ’em go.

  12. Zelda says:

    Ben, thank you so much for the link to the security hinge pins, I didn’t know about them. I have a door that opens out for access reasons. It has the hinge pins that need a “special tool” to remove but of course anyone practiced in breaking into places would have one. But like Joel’s situation, there’s a large window near the out opening door that could be broken in 3 seconds and used for entry…and who would mess with a door with a window so close?
    Joel as long as Big Brother is coming to visit, is there budget for lumber to build an ADA compliant (handrails, width and grade) ramp up to your front door and maybe also the side door. You can also put anti-skid strips on them.

  13. Norman says:

    @ Zelda – you can make your own security hinge pins with 1/4 lag bolts: drill into the studs behind the jamb, screw the lags in, cut the heads off. Doing it yourself you get to postion them anywhere on the door edge you want, make them as long as you want, use longer lags to be sure you’re well into the supporting studs, use 5/16″diameter lags if you want heavier, use as many pins as you feel necessary, etc. The door edge will have to be drilled to accommodate the lag shaft, pro tip: a 1/4″ diameter lag will require about a 3/8″ hole in the door edge because of the way the edge engages at an angle as the door closes.

To the stake with the heretic!